How was the SaunaLife G4 assembled?
The G4 was a two-person, two-day structural build on a prepared foundation, with the electrical work left to a licensed professional. The wall beams were driven home course by course with a hammer and hammer block, the purlins and gable parts screwed on, then the roof boarded, covered with the supplied asphalt roofing and trimmed. Every screw went into a pilot hole drilled first, and the manual's own note on the first page is "Read the entire manual before assembly. Get the tools you need."
It was not a no-cut kit. The manual instructs the builder to cut the last roof board to the correct width, cut the frontboards to length, cut the gableboards to the correct angle, cut the final floor and terrace board to width, and cut the floor strips to size, so a saw was needed throughout the build. SaunaLife's Garden-Series owner instructions say to hire qualified professionals for electrical work, including heater and lighting installation, so the heater, its control unit and the LED lighting were wired by an electrician, not by the owner.
If you are rebuilding or re-siting a G4
Set the base frame out from the ground-frame and floor-beam parts listed in the manual rather than from a published footprint figure: SaunaLife's published depth figures for the G4 do not agree with one another, which is why the specification above gives the exterior width and not the depth, and the manual's parts list is the only source you can measure against. The manual also specifies that the first wall plank must sit 0.39" above the edge of the base frame and be screwed down to it, that the diagonals must measure equal before the walls go up, and that the door and window elements are fixed to the house only through their slats — never screwed to the wall beams, because the wall has to be free to move.
Keeping a G4 in good order
SaunaLife's owner guidance for the Garden-Series is to treat all wooden components with a wood preservative and to re-apply it at least once a year, to improve resistance to dirt and moisture. Wipe the benches with a damp cloth rather than running water over them, run the heater for about 30 minutes afterwards with the vent open to dry the room, and once a year check the bench and support fixings for screws that heat cycling has loosened. Avoid paints, varnishes, harsh disinfectants and pressure washers. Wood may crack or warp slightly with the temperature and humidity swings a sauna goes through; SaunaLife says so itself, and it is normal.